Meghan Markle's New Apricot Spread Mocked by US Champion Jam Maker as a 'Runny Failure'

Meghan Markle's latest 'As Ever' offering - an apricot spread - has drawn fierce criticism from jam experts who say it's closer to a failed preserve than a shelf-stable product.

Meghan Markle's latest release under her luxury lifestyle brand 'As Ever'—an apricot fruit spread—has come under fire from seasoned jam makers, with one calling it a 'runny failure' and branding the product a rescue job for a failed jam.

The £7 apricot spread (£10 with keepsake packaging) sold out within hours of launching on Friday. However, critics claim its sell-out success has more to do with limited production and celebrity buzz than culinary excellence.

'A Spread Is What You Make When Your Jam Fails'

Donna Collins, owner of award-winning US jam company Jelly Queens, launched a blistering critique in an interview with the Daily Mail. With more than 40 international jam titles to her name, Collins did not mince words.

'It's a real disappointment that Meghan is selling a fruit spread, which is what you make when your jam fails,' said Collins. 'In the jam industry, a spread is what we call something that didn't work.'

Collins criticised several elements of the product:

• Runny texture: 'If I had a jam that was too runny, I'd slap a label on it and call it a spread. There's no excuse for this. It should be perfect.'
• Pectin usage: Collins took issue with the likely use of added pectin, suggesting it's often used to compensate for poor setting. 'Most true spreads don't require added pectin,' she said.
• Ingredient sourcing: She also questioned the use of conventionally grown apricots, asking, 'Why use fruit treated with pesticides when organic options are available?'

'We all know it's not Meghan herself making the jam,' Collins added. 'Whoever is behind the scenes clearly doesn't know what they're doing.'

A Déjà‑vu Moment for 'Runny'

This isn't the first time Meghan's fruit preserves have drawn criticism. Her debut raspberry spread, released in April, was described by some as too runny to be called jam.

• The Cut described it as 'too runny for a PB&J', although praised its authentic fruit flavour.
• Washington Post pastry chefs scored it highly (27.7/30) in a blind test, while admitting the thin texture wasn't ideal.
• The Times reported mixed reviews, with some customers calling the texture 'noticeable but not off-putting', though many questioned its steep price tag.

Customer reviews have been similarly divided. RadarOnline reported that some buyers called the spread 'watery', comparing it to a fruit sauce. Others speculated that the product's consistency may have been affected by heat during shipping. A few even claimed to have found foreign particles in jars sold at pop-ups.

What Makes a Proper Jam?

Jam aficionados argue that texture is just as important as flavour. Key quality markers include:

• Consistency: A good jam should hold its shape without being stiff or runny.
• Gelling method: Traditional recipes rely on natural pectin and sugar, avoiding additives that affect texture.
• Flavour balance: A proper jam should offer a refined balance of sweetness and acidity.
• Ingredient quality: Organic or pesticide-free fruit is preferred for a clean, natural taste.

Marketing Over Craft?

Maureen Foley of California-based Red Hen Cannery suggested the controversy may be a branding strategy. 'Spreads can be sweet or savoury and used across meals. Perhaps it's just clever marketing,' she said.

Final Verdict

Meghan Markle's foray into artisan food continues to make headlines, but industry experts stress that aesthetics and celebrity hype cannot replace culinary precision.

As her 'As Ever' brand expands, the Duchess may need to prioritise texture as much as taste. For jam lovers and professionals alike, one thing remains clear: consistency is key.